Parts List

(2) Rear Toe Arms

(2) Suspension Grease

(12) Zip Ties

(2) Spacers

Tools Needed

Sockets

3/8"

3/8" ratchet
3/8" 12" extension
3/8" 6" extension
3/8" 12mm socket
3/8" 17mm socket

Hand Tools

5mm Allen Key

Wrenches

14mm combination wrench
17mm combination wrench

Stock Component Removal

Park your car in a flat, level area and allow it to cool down properly.
Using a 10mm wrench, remove the negative terminal of the battery.
You will need to remove the rear wheels to do this job, break the rear wheel nuts loose but don't remove them.
Jack your car up and support it properly, either using a lift or a jack and jack stands. Remove the wheels.
Lay a blanket or cardboard down under the car, or grab a creeper. In this case his name is Andrew
These are the bad boys we're removing, you'll start off by removing the 12mm nut holding the parking brake cable to the stock toe rods, then pull down on the cable slightly to remove it from the stud.
Head over to the other end and remove the cotter pin that keeps the stock nut from backing out.
Using a 14mm socket or wrench remove the nut most of the way but leave it on a few turns.
Now the fun part, Hit the nut with your hammer until it pops free from the knuckle.
Navigate to the other end. Mark your adjusters so you know where they were lined up for reinstallation then remove the bolt and washers with two 19mm sockets or wrenches.
With the adjuster out you can remove the nut holding the ball joint end into the knuckle and take the whole stock toe arm out of the car.

Toe Arm Installation

Line up the center line of the balljoint on the end of the toe arm and the bushing on the opposite end. You'll now turn the center threaded portion of the adjuster on the toe arm to make them the same length. You'll want to try and keep a fairly even amount of material on either side of the center to avoid having one end backed out significantly further on the threads.
Apply some of the provided grease to the face of each bushing.
You can now install the new toe arms in place. We recommend getting the outside in first. If you choose to put the inside in first you may need to move the angle of the outside joint to make it slip into the knuckle more easily.
Add the supplied spacer to the end, then thread the nut onto the outside joint.
Set the inside adjuster to mimic what it was originally then tighten it down.
Tighten down the set nuts on the arm. You can do this by holding each end in place with a wrench (21mm for the inner end and 24mm.15/16 for the outer end) while using a second wrench (24mm or 15/16) to tighten the nut up against that end.
Now you can put the provided pin through the hole and castle nut. If the hole doesn't line up tighten the nut up slightly more until it fits.
Spread the two halves of the cotter pin to hold it in place and bend them back along the bolt to make sure they don't rub on anything.
Using two zip ties secure the brake cable bracket to the arms. We found if you get the tab that sticks up vertical at the end of the bracket right up against the toe arm and zip tie it through the bolt hole and another by the cable that it is very secure.
Cut off the ends of the zip ties. Or let them drag, they make some cool sounds sometimes.
You're all done! Go get an alignment before driving the vehicle on the street.