702120 - Fiesta ST Intake

2014 - 2019 Ford Fiesta ST

Congratulations on your purchase of the COBB Tuning Intake System for the Fiesta ST! The following instructions will assist you through the installation process. Please read them BEFORE beginning the install to familiarize yourself with the steps and tools needed. If you feel you cannot properly perform this installation, we HIGHLY recommend you take the vehicle to a qualified and experienced automotive technician.

Parts List

Intake Tube

Velocity Stack

Fiesta ST Filter

Fiesta Airbox Lid

Turbo Inlet Reducing Elbow

Airbox To Intake Silicone

Fiesta Airbox Gasket

Intake Mounting Bracket

Airbox Spacer

Late-Model Vacuum Line & Loose Vacuum Line

#44 Hose Clamp

(2) #48 Hose Clamps

#52 Clamp

(2) m8x1.0 x 12mm Flange Head Bolt

(4) m4x1.0 x 12mm Stainless Cap Bolt

(2) m4x8mm Cap Bolt

1/8 npt x 3/8 nylon Elbow

M3 and M4 Hex Keys

Tools Needed

Sockets

3/8"

3/8" ratchet
3/8" 12" extension
3/8" 6" extension
3/8" Socket Swivel
3/8" 7mm socket
3/8" 8mm socket
3/8" 10mm socket
3/8" 12mm socket
3/8" 15mm socket
3/8" 15mm deep socket
3/8" T20 Torx Bit
3/8" T25 Torx Bit
3/8" T30 Torx Bit
3/8" 4mm Allen Socket
3/8" 5 mm Allen Socket
3/8" 10 mm Allen Socket

Hand Tools

Phillips head screwdriver
Flathead screwdriver
3mm Allen Key
7mm Nut Driver
Trim removal tool
Pick
Needlenose pliers
Channel Lock Pliers
Deadblow Hammer

Removing Factory Intake

To start off, it’s best to go ahead and unplug the negative battery cable from the battery. You will need a 10mm socket or wrench to do so.
Pull the engine cover off of the motor by pulling upward and away. It’s held in place by three (3) grommets that will pop out with force.
Remove the two (2) rubber caps off of the base of the windshield wipers. Use a 15mm socket to remove the nut holding each wiper to the vehicle. Remove the wipers by wiggling them back and forth off of their spline. This may require the use of a small bearing puller type tool.
Pro Tip: Use blue painters tape to mark where the wipers rest in a down position so that it’s easy to reinstall later.
Using a small pick or a small flat-head screwdriver, pry off the six (6) clips that hold the two layers of cowl together and set them aside. Remove the top cowl piece and set aside.
Using a T30 Torx bit, remove the two (2) screws that hold each headlight on. Use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the plastic fastener as well. Starting at the back of the light, pull upward on the headlight until it pops free. You may need to push the headlight toward the windshield to release the upper clip. Unplug the plug on the back of the headlight and set it aside. Remove both headlights.
With the headlights out of the way, use a 10mm socket, remove the two (2) fasteners on each end of the lower cowl section. Once all four (4) fasteners are removed, use your fingers to pinch and remove the line in the center of the cowl and remove the cowl.
With the cowl finally out of the way, we can now remove the factory intake. Use a 10mm socket to remove the nut holding down the intake to the valve cover. Use a 12mm wrench to remove the plastic engine cover mount that is also holding the intake in place at the back of the motor.
Use a 7mm socket to loosen all three (3) of the worm clamps on the intake. There is one behind the motor where the intake meets the turbo as well as one clamp where the two intake tubes meet and one clamp that secures the tube to the airbox.
a) If you have a 2014-2015 MY use a pair of pliers to pull the Evap hose off of the valve cover.

b) If you have a 2016-2019 MY, un-clip the Evap hose from the stock intake tube by squeezing the plastic ring and pulling away from the tube. (Refer to picture on right)
a) If you have a 2014-2015 MY remove the tube at the start of the intake by disconnecting the connector with the green clip and pulling it away from the intake. Pull back the red tab on the MAF sensor attached to the airbox and unplug the sensor.

b) If you have a 2016-2019 MY remove the two (2) connectors with the green clips and pull back the red tab on the MAF sensor attached to the airbox and unplug the sensor. With your hand, follow the hardline coming from the larger of the two connectors until you find the clip connecting the other end to the lower intercooler piping. Unclip this and remove the entire stock hardline. Remember where this connection is as you will need to connect the intake adapter to it later.
With all the connections and clamps loose on the intake, break the two tubes apart and remove the intake from the car.
Using a T20 Torx bit, remove the four (4) screws holding the top of the airbox onto the lower part of the box. Once removed, remove the MAF sensor from the box using a T20 Torx bit.
If you have plans to continue using the engine cover, re-install the engine cover mount that was previously holding down the intake.
(my17-19) Reach down and unclip this Evap hose.

Intake Tube Pre-Assembly

Install the right angle barbed fitting into the fitting on the back side of the intake
Install the support bracket with the short side of the bracket towards the barbed fitting. Leave the bolt slightly loose for now so you can move it around and get everything installed.
Assemble the EVAP Line (click to expand)
2014-2015
For this vehicle you will remove the barbed fitting from the short middle bit of the pre-assembled evap line and install it into the loose length of provided hose.

2016-2019
For this set of years you'll use the provided pre-assembled evap line.
Using the provided two m4 socket headed bolts, install the MAF sensor onto the new intake tube making sure the same direction is pointing towards the air filter.

Airbox Pre-Assembly

Remove the center portion of the gasket from the sheet.
Assemble the outer portion of the gasket material to the indented rim of the bottom of the airbox.
Slip the velocity stack upwards into the airbox lid.
Secure the velocity stack using your 4 stainless button head screws and the provided hex key.
Slip the air filter inside and secure the hose clamp using an 8mm nut driver or screwdriver.

Installing the COBB Intake

Using the smallest clamp (#40), install the 2.5" - 3" Coupler onto the turbo inlet and slip a #48 clamp over the larger end sticking up. Leave them both loose for now.

Make sure that your hose clamps are clocked so that they do not rub on anything. The ones on the coupler going to the turbo inlet in particular can be clocked in a fashion that they rub on other components of the engine bay causing damage.
Loosely fit the tube into the car and make sure the clamp orientation on the turbo inlet is where you'll be able to reach it with a wrench or screwdriver.
Lay the hose assembly down in the space below where the stock intake was routed and connect the long end with the quick connect to the manifold, then the side with the male fitting and check valve to the evap system.
Snap the valve cover fitting onto the bung on the intake tube.
Use this bolt in order to loosely attach the support bracket from the intake into the unused bracket sticking off the back of the cylinder head.

(Picture from battery side)
Install the COBB Airbox Lid and filter assembly into the stock lower airbox using the factory hardware.
We've found that the wide range of adjustability in the factory intake can sometimes cause an issue with the fitment of the hood rod. As such we made a small lockout ring. To install, use a T-20 to remove the screw holding the rubber bumper onto the front of the airbox.
Once the screw is removed some slight wiggling should free the unit. You may need to gently pull the two halves of the plastic apart where it attaches to the airbox (Not the curved parts gripping the rubber)
Slide the supplied delrin lockout over the rubber bumper, and re-install.
Install the 90 degree offset coupler onto the pipe. Keep the raised portion (first picture) that has the cobb logo towards the airbox. You'll use a #52 clamp on the pipe side and a #52 clamp on the airbox side.
Install the silicone coupler onto the airbox. Make sure to slide the clamps past the ridge found on both the tube and airbox.
Once you're happy with the position of the tube, tighten down the hose clamps (8mm or screwdriver) followed by the bracket bolts that support the tube on the cylinder head. (12mm).

Make sure that your hose clamps are clocked so that they do not rub on anything. The ones on the coupler going to the turbo inlet in particular can be clocked in a fashion that they rub on other components of the engine bay causing damage.
Plug the MAF harness back in. You may need to remove the tape found on the battery harness or holding the wiring to the sensor connector in order to reach the new location. make sure to push down on the red release tab to lock it in place.
Reinstall the rest of the stock components in the reverse order of removal.
You're all done! Go out and enjoy!

A quick note on closing the hood

We found newer cars were more fairly likely to have the hood prop be in the wrong orientation when you go to install. Make sure it's oriented so that the prop itself fits into the retainer built into the radiator shroud.

CARB Sticker Installation (Where Applicable)

Install the supplied CARB sticker on an easily viewable space that won't be susceptible to large amounts of heat. We recommend on the radiator core support, or the underside of the hood.