702110 - Fiesta ST Cold Air Intake

2014 - 2019 Ford Fiesta ST

Congratulations on your purchase of the COBB Tuning Intake System for the Fiesta ST! The following instructions will assist you through the installation process. Please read them BEFORE beginning the install to familiarize yourself with the steps and tools needed. If you feel you cannot properly perform this installation, we HIGHLY recommend you take the vehicle to a qualified and experienced automotive technician.

Parts List

Intake Tube
Velocity Stack
Filter
Airbox Lid
2.5" - 3" adapter
Airbox 90* silicone
Airbox Gasket
Intake Mounting Bracket
Evap hose assembly
(2) #48 Clamps
#44 Clamp
#52 Clamp
NPT Angle Barbed Fitting
(2) 8mmx12mm hex bolt
(4) 6mmx12mm hex bolt
(2) 4mmx8mm Allen bolt

Tools Needed

Sockets

3/8"

Hand Tools

Removing Factory Intake

To start off, it’s best to go ahead and unplug the negative battery cable from the battery. You will need a 10mm socket or wrench to do so.
Pull the engine cover off of the motor by pulling upward and away. It’s held in place by three (3) grommets that will pop out with force.
Remove the two (2) rubber caps off of the base of the windshield wipers. Use a 15mm socket to remove the nut holding each wiper to the vehicle. Remove the wipers by wiggling them back and forth off of their spline. This may require the use of a small bearing puller type tool.
Pro Tip: Use blue painters tape to mark where the wipers rest in a down position so that it’s easy to reinstall later.
Using a small pick or a small flat-head screwdriver, pry off the six (6) clips that hold the two layers of cowl together and set them aside. Remove the top cowl piece and set aside.
Using a T30 Torx bit, remove the two (2) screws that hold each headlight on. Use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the plastic fastener as well. Starting at the back of the light, pull upward on the headlight until it pops free. You may need to push the headlight toward the windshield to release the upper clip. Unplug the plug on the back of the headlight and set it aside. Remove both headlights.
With the headlights out of the way, use a 10mm socket, remove the two (2) fasteners on each end of the lower cowl section. Once all four (4) fasteners are removed, use your fingers to pinch and remove the line in the center of the cowl and remove the cowl.
With the cowl finally out of the way, we can now remove the factory intake. Use a 10mm socket to remove the nut holding down the intake to the valve cover. Use a 12mm wrench to remove the plastic engine cover mount that is also holding the intake in place at the back of the motor.
Use a 7mm socket to loosen all three (3) of the worm clamps on the intake. There is one behind the motor where the intake meets the turbo as well as one clamp where the two intake tubes meet and one clamp that secures the tube to the airbox.
a) If you have a 2014-2015 MY use a pair of pliers to pull the Evap hose off of the valve cover. (Refer to the picture on left)

b) If you have a 2016-2017 MY, un-clip the Evap hose from the stock intake tube by squeezing the plastic ring and pulling away from the tube. (Refer to picture on right)
a) If you have a 2014-2015 MY remove the tube at the start of the intake by disconnecting the connector with the green clip and pulling it away from the intake. Pull back the red tab on the MAF sensor attached to the airbox and unplug the sensor. (Refer to picture on left)

b) If you have a 2016-2017 MY remove the two (2) connectors with the green clips and pull back the red tab on the MAF sensor attached to the airbox and unplug the sensor. With your hand, follow the hardline coming from the larger of the two connectors until you find the clip connecting the other end to the lower intercooler piping. Unclip this and remove the entire stock hardline. Remember where this connection is as you will need to connect the intake adapter to it later. (Refer to picture on right).
With all the connections and clamps loose on the intake, break the two tubes apart and remove the intake from the car.
Using a T20 Torx bit, remove the four (4) screws holding the top of the airbox onto the lower part of the box. Once removed, remove the MAF sensor from the box using a T20 Torx bit.
If you have plans to continue using the engine cover, re-install the engine cover mount that was previously holding down the intake.
(my17+) Reach down and unclip this Evap hose.

Installing the COBB Intake

Using the smallest clamp (#44), install the 2.5" - 3" Coupler onto the turbo inlet and slip a #48 clamp over it.

Make sure that your hose clamps are clocked so that they do not rub on anything. The ones on the coupler going to the turbo inlet in particular can be clocked in a fashion that they rub on other components of the engine bay causing damage.
Take the provided AC-Line Shim. Looking right behind the turbo on the firewall locate the bracket holding it to the car. You'll clip it on top of the line then zip tie it in place. This should keep the line towards the right side of the retainer mounted to the firewall. This is important because if the hose clamp has the screw towards the line or it rotates that way over time, it could cause damage. The zip tie should fit neatly in the depression in the center of the clip.
Install the barbed 90 degree fitting onto the intake tube pointing it in the same direction as the bend.
Install the supplied Evap hose barbed fitting

MY2016-2019
Lay the hose assembly down in the space below where the stock intake was routed and connect the long end with the quick connect to the manifold, then the side with the male fitting and check valve to the evap system. The bare hose end will get attached to the intake tube later.

My2014-2015
Take one of the longer sections of hose off of the Tee fitting, then add the male barbed fitting into one end. Pushing the other end over the barbed fitting on the intake. You should have the remaining parts left over in the second photo.
Loosely attach the bracket using the supplied 8mmx12mm bolt
Loosely fit the tube into the car and make sure the clamp orientation on the turbo inlet is where you'll be able to reach it with a wrench or screwdriver.
Snap the valve cover fitting onto the bung on the intake tube.
Using the remaining 8mmx12mm bolt, attach the bracket to this un-used threaded bracket on the back of the engine.
Using the provided hose clamp. Install the velocity stack into the air filter.
Using a 4.5mm allen wrench, screw the filter and stack assembly into the COBB Airbox LId using the 4 6mmx12mm screws
Install the COBB Airbox Lid and filter assembly into the stock lower airbox using the factory hardware.
We've found that the wide range of adjustability in the factory intake can sometimes cause an issue with the fitment of the hood rod. As such we made a small lockout ring. To install, use a T-20 to remove the screw holding the rubber bumper onto the front of the airbox.
Once the screw is removed some slight wiggling should free the unit. You may need to gently pull the two halves of the plastic apart where it attaches to the airbox (Not the curved parts gripping the rubber)
Slide the supplied delrin lockout over the rubber bumper, and re-install.
The stock MAF sensor can go into the tube. Make sure to keep the same direction facing the air filter as it was previously. Use the supplied 4mmx8mm screws
Install the 90 degree offset coupler onto the pipe. Keep the raised portion (first picture) that has the cobb logo towards the airbox. You'll use a #48 clamp on the pipe side and a #52 clamp on the airbox side.
Install the silicone coupler onto the airbox. Make sure to slide the clamps past the ridge found on both the tube and airbox.
Once you're happy with the position of the tube, tighten down the hose clamps (8mm or screwdriver) followed by the bracket bolts that support the tube (10mm).

Make sure that your hose clamps are clocked so that they do not rub on anything. The ones on the coupler going to the turbo inlet in particular can be clocked in a fashion that they rub on other components of the engine bay causing damage.
Plug the MAF harness back in. You may need to remove the tape found on the battery harness or holding the wiring to the sensor connector in order to reach the new location.
Reinstall the rest of the stock components in the reverse order of removal.
Flash an appropriate map for the intake.
You're all done! Go out and enjoy!

A quick note on closing the hood

We found newer cars were more fairly likely to have the hood prop be in the wrong orientation when you go to install. Make sure it's oriented so that the prop itself fits into the retainer built into the radiator shroud.