Datalogging Review for Gen2 BRZ, GR86 Vehicles

Intro to Datalogging

Whether you own a stock daily driver or a dedicated track car, keeping tabs on how your car is running is vital to making sure your car will last without needing expensive repairs. While monitoring gauges on your car can let you know what is happening with a few parameters at a given moment, it won't be able to give you a full scope of how the car is running. In order to gain perspective over a wider range of time and parameters, we run a datalog.

Here’s a good reference on How To: Datalog

What is a Datalog?

A Datalog is a file taken by the Accessport where it records a user-specified set of sensor data and/or information that the vehicle's computer is using to run the engine. This can include things from simple data like coolant temperature or boost, to how often the computer wants the fuel injector to be open during a given engine cycle.

Why Can't I Datalog Everything?

While each generation of ECU has different limitations there is generally a limit to the number of parameters you can select. In most cases, this is because the ECU needs to process the requests for data and output that information to whatever device is requesting it. As a result, the more monitors you request, the more work the computer has to do in order to keep up. On some vehicles, as you approach the limit you won't see any differences until it simply cannot log more items. However, on other platforms, you will see the approach to the limit show itself as a slow down in the logging rate, so if you are logging a bunch of different items make sure to keep an eye on the amount of time in between each sample to keep things in perspective.

Things Every Good Datalog Needs

A Map with no reference points is never going to help you get from one place to another. There are a few parameters that do wonders for helping to put other monitors into context, as well as showing your environment and driving style.

RPM
- This lets us see what speed the engine is moving at in Revolutions Per Minute. Additionally, conditions of acceleration, deceleration, and maintaining a steady speed will all cause variations in the fueling, ignition timing, and boost.
Throttle Position
- How far open the throttle is open changes airflow to the engine and when combined with the RPM helps to give an indication of the amount of load the vehicle is under.
Accelerator Pedal Position - APP (drive by wire cars only)
- Measures the amount the accelerator pedal is pressed down by the driver. It does not always equate to the same amount of throttle position and can give us additional information similar to what throttle position offers.
Barometric Pressure (when available)
- A Measure of Barometric Pressure which is the air pressure at your location caused by multiple factors like temperature and elevation. Different pressures have an impact on air density which in turn will impact the amount of fuel necessary as well as peak boost and the way in which the turbo spools. At lower pressures (higher elevation) the turbocharger will have to work harder to achieve the same boost pressures.

Quick Reference Guide - All Subaru Platforms

Monitor Name	What is it?	What can it Tell Me?	Normal Expected Behavior

Monitor Name	What is it?	What can it Tell Me?	Normal Expected Behavior
Advance Multiplier	A multiplier applied to the final ignition timing to add or remove power based on driving conditions/fuel quality	Typically a good indicator of overall engine health. It can move around a little under normal driving conditions, if it’s very low it could mean something is wrong with the car (it may just need a tune up), or your fuel is not good enough or contaminated. We recommend Top Tier Fuels https://www.toptiergas.com/fuel-stations/	0.7 - 1.0
Fuel Trim Short Term B1	A correction based on current fueling error	The values shown are a percentage correction being applied. Positive values mean that more fuel is being injected and negative values mean less. These corrections are called trims. Their purpose is to adjust fueling in order to help the engine run at the currently desired air/fuel ratio. When you floor it or lift throttle and coast, you'll notice trimming stops (0% correction). During throttle transitions, expect to see trims move around as a part of normal behavior. Consistent corrections under similar conditions will be learned by the ECU and applied as AF Learning (See Below). Excessive trimming at idle or cruise may indicate an intake tract leak, bad sensor, or using the incorrect intake for specific mapping	Light Throttle: +/- 30% Heavy Throttle: 0%
Fuel Trim Long Term B1	Learned Corrections based on AF Corrections needed in the past.	Just like Fuel Trim Short Term, these are percentages added or subtracted to fueling. The values are learned slowly over time and are often referred to as long term trims. Short and Long term trims are added together, and then applied as a total value to the cars final fueling. Be mindful that you may experience long and short term trims which partially cancel each other out. For example a short term trim of +12% and a long term trim of -15% would result in a -3% trim. Generally, over time both trims will then get smaller as the ECU continues learning. Excessive long term trimming may indicate a mechanical issue.	+/- 7%
Coolant Temp	Temperature of the engine coolant.	A measure of engine temperature. The car will typically alter timing and fueling at different engine temperatures. Can also let you know if the car is overheating or not fully warming up which could indicate issues with the cooling system or a faulty sensor. Above 225F you’ll see the RPM limit reduce from COBB Engine Safety	<225F
Engine Oil Temperature	How Hot your oil is	Hot oil is bad for the engine and can significantly shorten engine lifespan. It’s a good idea to keep it under 230F for more consistent oil pressure and life span. Once it gets higher than ~260F you need to start worrying about severe engine wear. If you’re going to drive the car hard or live in a hot area, a good oil cooler is strongly recommended. Above 257F you’ll see the RPM limit reduce from COBB Engine Safety	<257F
Gear	Current transmission gear.	It helps to provide a context of how the vehicle is being driven during a datalog.	R,1,2,3,4,5,6. If you manage a 10 or higher I’ll be impressed
Intake Air Temp	The temperature of the air charge going into the intake.	As atmospheric conditions change, engine efficiency and operation are affected. The ECU attempts to correct for temperature changes in various ways. Knowing the temperature reading the ECU was given provides context for other readings such as boost.	Relatively similar to outside temperature however it will be higher as it is measured in the engine bay.
Knock Correction (Retard Amount AK)	Measure of current adjustment to ignition timing based on current knock (detonation)	Your car is knocking. If you’re outside the normal range you could have bad fuel, something could be wrong with the engine, you may need to let it cool down, or the 10mm you dropped into the engine bay is hitting the engine block just right	0 to -3, occasionally more negative during an aggressive shift or when transitioning the accelerator pedal to another position.
Knock Correction (Fine Learned)	A learned memory of previous consistent knock from Knock Correction	Typically any point where the ECU sees knock consistently it will apply a knock correction to keep it from happening in the future. This includes where there are consistent gear changes. It can also correct with positive values to increase timing in areas where the engine is running well and happy.	-3 to +10
RPM	Engine revolutions per minute	This is a measure of how fast your engine is spinning. Inconsistencies at idle can indicate faulty sensors or vacuum/boost leaks. When looking at a datalog or graph under acceleration, seeing erratic values can be an indication of misfiring due to spark plug, coil pack, grounding issues, a fuel supply issue, or even a clutch or transmission slip. Looking at it against vehicle speed can indicate breaking tractionor a slipping clutch	Hopefully below ~7500 where the rev limiter is. Money shifting is not recommended for this application.

Custom Tunes

With a custom tune, keep in mind that since they're made to specifications other than what we use, normal values may vary. For troubleshooting on a custom map reach out to the Protuner responsible for your tune and they should be able to help you out!

Engine Swaps

With thousands of cars around the world utilizing these engines, oftentimes swapping a used motor into your car can be a cost-effective alternative to rebuilding a tired or broken engine. However there are many important things to keep in mind when doing this as not all engines are created equal. Oftentimes foreign engines can come from the exact same model but have completely different hook-ups, sensors, or manifolds attached to the engine itself. Harder to detect are the engines that have different cam specs or a different compression ratio (a common occurrence between United States (USDM) and Japanese market (JDM) vehicles). This means that while getting it to fit can be a simple matter of just swapping a few parts over, getting it to run healthily and correctly is a different matter. Due to the fact that none of the engine's sensors will detect any of these changes, or the potential for a difference in sensor to cause skewed values, you will need to get a custom tune when swapping your engine out for anything other than the exact same engine your car had initially with stock specifications.

Built Engines

In the quest for ever more speed and power, eventually you come to the point of ordering up a built engine block or even having one custom built to your specifications. This is an incredibly exciting day, as you'll no longer be held back by the limitations of the stock bottom end and can explore the upper limits of what your car (and in some cases you) are capable of. Similar to swapping for another stock engine, you'll need to get a custom tune in order to keep your engine running safe and in optimal condition. An added reason for this is that when using aftermarket parts that are forged or billet, there are differences in how much expansion the materials will undergo when they start to absorb the heat of the engine running. As a result when attempting to run a stock tune with a built engine, you'll probably see a lot of knock numbers from piston noise. It's important to tune the car appropriately for that so that these false knock readings don't mask the ones which are real, just like brakes can help you avoid an accident and keep your car safe, a tune can help avoid detonation or running lean, and keep your new engine safe.

Links

https://cobbtuning.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/PRS/pages/3050635265