B41450 VB WRX Intercooler

Subaru WRX 2022-2023

Congratulations on your purchase of the COBB Tuning WRX Intercooler! The following instructions will assist you through the installation process. Please read them BEFORE beginning the install to familiarize yourself with the steps and tools needed. If you feel you cannot properly perform this installation, we HIGHLY recommend you take the vehicle to a qualified and experienced automotive technician.

Parts List

Intercooler Core

COBB Thrust Tunnel

2.75" Coupler

2' Edge Trim

Trimseal 16A

Trimseal 16c

(17) COBB 6mm Washers

(17) M6 x 1.0 x 12 Black Oxide Stainless Allen Bolts

(11) M6x 18mm Stainless Washer

(11) M6 x 1.0 Stainless Lock Nut

(2) #44 Hose Clamp

Tools Needed

Sockets

3/8"

3/8" ratchet
3/8" 12" extension
3/8" 6" extension
3/8" 7mm socket
3/8" 8mm socket
3/8" 12mm socket
3/8" 4mm Allen Socket

Hand Tools

Phillips head screwdriver
Flathead screwdriver
Trim removal tool
Pick

Misc.

Razor Blade, Dremel or other appropriate cutting device

Wrenches

8mm Ratcheting combination wrench
10mm combination wrench

Stock Intercooler Removal

Park your car in a flat, level area and allow it to cool down properly.
Using a 10mm wrench, remove the negative terminal of the battery.
Remove the two 12mm bolts from the throttle body to the intercooler using your ratchet.
On the driver's side (USDM) remove the 12mm bolt through the intercooler itself, the two holding the bracket to the intake manifold can be left for now.
Remove all three 12mm bolts on the passenger's side (USDM) and take the bracket out of the engine bay for now.
Gently pry out on the retaining clip spring until it sits in it's unlocked position (It should stay there without need of holding it with a tool)
Pull the hose connection out of the charge pipe and tilt the intercooler to remove it from the engine bay.

Intercooler Pre-Assembly

Remove the three bolts holding the charge pipe portion to the stock intercooler using your 12mm wrench. This can get moved over to the new COBB intercooler.
Carefully using a pick, remove the o-ring from the intercooler outlet where it attaches to the throttle body. Move this to the new COBB intercooler.
Undo the two 7mm hose clamps holding the rubber coupler on the charge pipe.
Replace it with the COBB coupler using an 8mm to tighten the hose clamps. Make sure to keep the pointy end of the factory quick connect adapter pointing away from the intercooler and the barbed end pointing towards the intercooler.
Push the metal inserts out of the rubber bumpers on the stock intercooler, then remove the rubber insert Those can then get moved over to the new COBB intercooler.

Intercooler Installation

First get the COBB intercooler under the lip at the back of the engine bay
Get the charge pipe lined up in place.
Rotate the intercooler around the charge pipe to get the throttle body into place on the intercooler.
Loosely install the passenger's side bracket with the stock bolts.
Repeat with the driver's side.
Bolt down the throttle body with the two factory bolts, then tighten down the two outside brackets.

Shroud Pre-Assembly

Taking the longer piece of trimseal (16c, looks somewhat like a duck) run it along the edge of the Thrust Tunnel with the curve going inward.
When you get to the corners you can either completely cut through the trim, or make v-shaped cuts in the bottom edge using a pair of side cutters (be careful it's reinforced with wire) and then bending it around the corner.
Along the back side (the more steeply angled portion) you'll use the other trimseal (16A, Does not look like duck)

Stock Underhood Air Diverter Removal / COBB Thrust Tunnel Installation

Remove the 8mm bolts and trim clips holding the stock underhood air diverter in place and remove it from the car.
Remove the plastic rivtes holding the plastic lip around the air diverter. In some cases this can be done by hand or with pliers.
Bolt the Thrust Tunnel in with a few bolts where it matches along the top, and the side bolts. It doesn't have to be in tightly, we just want to hold the Thrust Tunnel in the correct location.
Mark the holes through the threaded holes on the back of the Thrust Tunnel so that you know where to drill.
Draw a line at the lowest portion of the cutouts, this is essentially in line with the fold in the metal.
You can remove the Thrust Tunnel from the factory plastic. Now, running just slightly below the marks you made, use a straightedge to mark a line all the way across. It's also a good time to make the marks you're going to drill more obvious.
Go ahead and drill the holes out with a small drill bit or step drill. Usually it's a good idea to start with a smaller size, then re-fit the Thrust Tunnel together to make sure it looks like it's correct before drilling it out to the final dimensions of 6mm (1/4" works as well) You can go slightly larger if you need to if some of the holes ended up being slightly off.
Cut off the shroud below the line you marked. It's always good to take less off then gradually take more off until you're happy. An airsaw works the best however it's doable with other things like a dremel, jigsaw with appropriate blade, or carefully making multiple passes with a razor blade along the straightedge. After making the initial cut, re-fit the shroud and gradually sand it back until you're happy.
Cut the provided edge trim to the same length as the cut plastic edge and push it on covering the cut.
You can now final install the Thrust Tunnel. Put the bolts in loose at first. With the plastic washers underneath the allen boltsYou can install them into the integrated threads in the holes along the cut edge.
Next loosely install them with a washer and nut facing inwards on the sides.
Install them along the top with the nuts facing towards the back side of the tunnel.
With the hardware all in place you can go ahead and tighten it all down with an m4 allen wrench and 10mm.
Once it's all secured you can install it back onto the hood using the factory hardware.