Part Number - Part Name

Vehicle Coverage

Congratulations on your purchase of the COBB Tuning Radiator Hoses! The following instructions will assist you through the installation process. Please read them BEFORE beginning the install to familiarize yourself with the steps and tools needed. If you feel you cannot properly perform this installation, we HIGHLY recommend you take the vehicle to a qualified and experienced automotive technician.

Parts List

Tools Needed

Sockets

3/8"

3/8" ratchet
3/8" 12" extension
3/8" 6" extension
3/8" Socket Swivel
3/8" 7mm socket
3/8" 8mm socket
3/8" 10mm socket
3/8" 11mm socket
3/8" 12mm socket
3/8" 13mm socket
3/8" 14mm socket
3/8" 15mm socket
3/8" 16mm socket
3/8" 17mm socket
3/8" 18mm socket
3/8" 19mm socket
3/8" 21mm socket
3/8" 10mm deep socket
3/8" 12mm deep socket
3/8" 13mm deep socket
3/8" 14mm deep socket
3/8" 15mm deep socket
3/8" 17mm deep socket
3/8" 14mm swivel socket
3/8" T20 Torx Bit
3/8" T25 Torx Bit
3/8" T30 Torx Bit
3/8" T40 Torx Bit
3/8" T50 Torx Bit
3/8" E10 inverted Torx
3/8" E12 inverted Torx
3/8" E14 inverted Torx
3/8" E18 inverted Torx
3/8" 4mm Allen Socket
3/8" 5 mm Allen Socket
3/8" 10 mm Allen Socket

1/2"

1/2" ratchet
1/2" breaker bar*
1/2" 16" extension*
1/2" 14mm socket*
1/2" 23mm deep socket
Torque Wrench

Hand Tools

Phillips head screwdriver
Flathead screwdriver
3mm Allen Key
7mm Nut Driver
Trim removal tool
Pick
Needlenose pliers
Channel Lock Pliers
Deadblow Hammer

Misc.

14mm offset wrench
Oxygen Sensor Wrench
Hose cutter
Drain pan
Spill-Free coolant bleeding funnel

Wrenches

8mm Ratcheting combination wrench
10mm combination wrench
11mm combination wrench
12mm combination wrench
13mm combination wrench
14mm combination wrench
15mm combination wrench
16mm combination wrench
17mm combination wrench
18mm combination wrench
19mm combination wrench
21mm combination wrench

Stock Hose Removal

Park your car in a flat, level area and allow it to cool down completely. When in doubt, put gloves on and gently squeeze the radiator hoses to make sure the cooling system isn’t under pressure any longer.
Your car will need to be on jack stands or a lift to do this job as we’ll be going under the car to get to the drain and lower radiator hose. If you can't lift and support the car properly on jack stands or a lift, it’s a good time to take your car somewhere else to do this job safely.
Remove the trim clips holding the upper radiator panel in place. To do so, lift the center portion out using your trim tool, then lift the body of the clip out.
Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the intake to the core support.
On the underside of the panel, gently undo the clips holding the intake snorkel to the panel. These can be gently squeezed and pushed outward to remove the weather stripping. Once removed you can lift the panel out of the engine bay and set it somewhere safe.
With that panel removed you can start working on the intake. You can either completely remove the intake, or just remove the connecting hose that goes over the radiator hoses. If you want to remove the intake there are two 10mm bolts down on the frame holding the airbox in place, unclip the MAF sensor, and then remove the accordion coupler from the engine side using a Phillips screwdriver.

Otherwise you can just remove the accordion coupler using your Phillips screwdriver.
Moving under the car, all of the flat blade screwdriver hardware are simple quarter-turn fasteners. If you turn them about 90 degrees they should be freed from what they’re into.
You’ll need to use a Phillips for the front two bolts that hold the skid plate in place. Once all the hardware is removed, gently let the tray come down, giving you access to the radiator and lower radiator hose.
Move a drain pan to the hole underneath the drain petcock. Gently turn the petcock counter-clockwise, If you’re too aggressive with this drain it will snap off and you’ll be stuck in a bad place, so take your time. If it’s really tight you may want to spray it with wd40 to release some of the dirt and grit and allow you to loosen this off safely.
Once you’re sure you’ve got the drain pan in a good spot, you can pop off the radiator cap to increase the speed at which the coolant comes out.
You can walk away and take a break until the coolant stops, or you can make a larger mess and keep going at this point.
Using pliers or a fancy spring clamp tool like this guy: Fancy Spring Clamp Tool remove the lower radiator hose clamp and slide it back an inch or two on the hose.
You can try and wiggle this back and forth a little to release the hose from the radiator. Sometimes the hose bonds pretty strongly to the radiator and you’ll need to either cut it off, or carefully get a hose pick in between the hose and radiator and gently wiggle it around to release the hose from the radiator. Be careful as you can break the plastic radiator if you’re forcing things too much and replacing the radiator is a much bigger job.
Once the hose is off more coolant will probably come out of both the hose and radiator (especially if you weren’t patient)
Pop back up top and remove the hose clamp from both sides of the upper radiator hose. The radiator side one can be a pain if you don’t get it off far enough, so you may need to rotate it to get it past the core support.
Use the same wiggling method to remove the upper radiator hose.
Once the upper radiator hose is removed. You can remove the second hose clamp for the lower radiator hose and remove that hose the rest of the way from the car.