746550 - COBB Front Mount Intercooler VB Subaru WRX

2022-2024 Subaru WRX

Congratulations on your purchase of the COBB Tuning Front Mount Intercooler for VB WRX! The following instructions will assist you through the installation process. Please read them BEFORE beginning the install to familiarize yourself with the steps and tools needed. If you feel you cannot properly perform this installation, we HIGHLY recommend you take the vehicle to a qualified and experienced automotive technician.

[ 1 Parts ] [ 2 Tools Needed ] [ 3 Splash Shield Removal ] [ 4 Stock Charge Pipe Removal ] [ 5 Bumper Removal ] [ 6 Intercooler Installation ] [ 7 CARB Sticker Application ]

Parts

For throttle body pipe

Screws for engine cover bracket

To Turbo Inlet

To Throttle Body

#48 #44 #32
Sizes

Through 6mm isolators on charge pipes.

Through 8mm Isolator to intake manifold on throttle body charge pipe

For Throttle Body Adapter

Radiator Shroud / Intercooler Bracket to Radiator Support

12mm vs 16mm length difference

Intercooler Mounting Bolt

For Intercooler pipe bracket to frame.

12mm vs 16mm length difference

For hex bolts to intercooler core

for (6) radiator shroud/intercooler bracket mounting bolts. (1) Turbo piping bracket

For stock shrouding to new COBB mounts

From Intercooler to Frame Rail

Tools Needed

Sockets

3/8"

3/8" ratchet
3/8" 12" extension
3/8" 8mm socket
3/8" 10mm socket
3/8" 12mm socket
3/8" 13mm socket
3/8" 14mm socket

Hand Tools

Phillips head screwdriver
Flathead screwdriver
3mm Allen Key
4mm Allen Key
5mm Allen Key
Trim removal tool
Pick
Needlenose pliers
Channel Lock Pliers

Misc.

optional: Hose cutter or razor blade/knife

Splash Shield Removal

Start by parking your car in a flat level area. You’ll need to be able to work both under and above the car at times.
Jack your car up and safely support it, or use a lift if you’re a baller.
Using your trim tool remove the 5 trim clips across the front of the splash guard. This is done by pulling out the center until it stops, then popping the outside body out of the plastic shield.
Remove the two 12mm bolts at the front.
in front of each wheel, remove the trim clip near the tow hook, then the two on the wheel side, the top one is about halfway up the wheel well.
Remove the two small plastic clips from the splash guard that goes to the metal skid plate on each side as well as two in the front.
The splashguard should now drop out.

Stock Charge Pipe Removal

Park your car in a flat level area and allow it to cool down all the way. You’ll be working near the radiator and engine block so making sure it’s not too hot is pretty critical.
Using a flat-blade screwdriver or trim tool, pry outwards gently on the push clips for the snorkel, and remove the clips followed by the snorkel.
Unplug the two connectors on the fan controller, and the third connector going to the other fan. They all have tabs that you’ll push down in order to then be able to wiggle the connectors free.
Using your 10mm socket or wrench, remove the two bolts at the topof the radiator fan on the passenger’s side (USDM). This should all the fan to flop around a little bit.
As the fan is now free, we can go ahead and pull it out. You may need to gently flex the radiator hose out of the way if it is too close to the radiator and is restricting your movement.
Using your 12mm, remove the bolt holding the intake tube to the engine block near the bottom of the passenger’s side cylinder head.
Up top where the connector meets the pipe for the top mount intercooler you’ll see a metal ring. Pull it gently outwards (may involve some wiggling). it should lock into place without the sides of the clip holding the tube in place on the tube underneath.
Repeat the same on the bottom then wiggle and lift the pipe free from the engine bay.
With the charge pipe removed, loosen the hose clamp on the rubber coupler closest to the intercooler, then wiggle the rubber coupler and the plastic insert free and set them aside.
Remove the two 12mm bolts from the throttle body to the intercooler using your ratchet.
On the driver's side (USDM) remove the 12mm bolt through the intercooler itself, the two holding the bracket to the intake manifold can be left for now.
Remove all three 12mm bolts on the passenger's side (USDM) and take the bracket out of the engine bay for now.
Tilt the intercooler and remove it from the engine bay.

Bumper Removal

Remove the 4 trim clips that you pull the center out of, holding the top bumper support on to the radiator support.
Using a small screwdriver or pick, there are two trim clips in each corner where you’ll gently push down on the center to release the clips.
Undo the 6 bolts across the top of the bumper to finish freeing the top of the bumper.
Move down to the wheel wells and remove the 2 push style trim clips on each side.
Undo the trim clips holding the bumper to the wheel liners and start to slide the bumper out.
Press in the release tabs to remove the foglight connectors on each side of the bumper.
Set your bumper somewhere safe.
Remove the four bolts on each side holding your bumper beam in, and remove it from the car.
Squeeze the tabs on the harness for the ambient air temp sensor, and detach the wiring from the stock air directing panels of the front assembly.
Remove the lower parts that direct air over the radiator by undoing the trim clips along the back edge, and the two blue clips in either upright.
On the passenger’s side remove the 2 bolts and two nuts holding theis brace in and remove it from the car.
Using the provided zip tie holders, reroute your wiring harness in the direction shown.

Intercooler Installation

Install the passenger side intercooler brackets with integrated air guides on the core support using the provided hardware. They should slip into place underneath the upper air guide section for now. There are 3 bolts on either side, one is up under the headlight mount, you can leave that one out for now (it will be easier with the blue clip removed later.)
CVT Cars: On the driver’s side you’ll remove the nut on a stud, then reinstall that to add holding strength along with the remaining two bolts and nuts to the bracket/airguide. It should fit over the bracket for a CVT cooler if equipped.
With the air guides installed, push down on the top stock piece to get it flush against the top of the side air guides we just installed. Mark the holes along the top on each side with a marker, as well as the large hole on the passenger’s side for the charge piping.
With those marked out, remove the stock upper air deflector shroud thing from the car by popping out the two trim clips along the top, and the blue clip on either side in the headlights.
With it removed from the car, drill or poke holes in the three spots you marked on either side. For the intercooler piping you can either remove just the circle, or slice it straight across for a cleaner look. It shouldn’t matter too much.
Line up the upper radiator air guide on the brackets. Push three of the christmas tree trim clips through on either side to secure it on the sides. Reinstall the stock trim clips on the top into the core support, and the two blue clips into the headlight brackets.
Using (4) of the supplied m8 threaded bolts and washers on each side, attach the COBB intercooler to the two brackets.
Once it’s in place and tight, on the passenger’s side, snap the harness for the air temp sensor into the pre cut spaces on the air guide/bracket and loop the sensor around to the front side in front of the intercooler before snapping it into place.
Using a stock nut and a provided m8x16 bolt and matching nut, , attach the pipe support bracket to the chassis of the car.
Install the rubber bushings into the intercooler pipe brackets.
At the top of the car, locate this molded vacuum line that clips the the intake. first slit the insulation with a razor blade, then carefully slit the hard plastic tubing underneath and remove it from the black plastic fitting attached to the car.
At the other end, pull on the wire clip to release the fitting, then pull/wiggle upwards to remove the line from the car.
Following what you did on the other end, slit the sheathing and then the line to free the fitting from the stock line.
Install the connector onto one end of the provided length of hose and secure it with one of the provided spring clamps.
That end can then get reinstalled onto the turbo inlet.
On the opposite end, eyeball the length and trim the hose as you desire for fitment.
Then the line can be instaleld onto the stock fitting on the car, using a provided spring clamp.

Install that connector to the other end of the provided vacuum line with an additional spring clamp, then re-install it onto the turbo inlet.
Remove this small support bracket from the front of the engine near the cam position sensors. Set the bolts somewhere safe, you’ll need them one of them in a little bit.
Remove the o-ring from the inlet pipe, and add it to the intercooler pipe adapter. Then slip it over the turbo outlet. Clip the hose retaining trim clip onto the bracket of the pipe.
Rotate the new turbo outlet towards the block and bolt it to the engine with one of the bolts you previously removed.
Slip in the red clip with the indented side facing up, then lightly tighten the set screw (5mm allen) to hold it in place.
Swap the o-ring from your stock intercooler into the throttle body adapter.
Unbolt your throttle body and remove the stock intercooler bracket.
If you have the COBB Redline engine cover, you’ll want to add in this additional bracket, and tighten it with the small m4 flathead screws.
Slip the cobb throttle body adapter over the stock throttle body and bolt it down using the provided longer bolts. It only fits one way, with the tapped holes facing up, there is a cut out on the side for the throttle’s motor to have proper space.

(with bracket installed)
Attach the 80 degree coupler facing down to the top of the FMIC using one of the #44 hose clamps.
Install the slightly angled coupler pointing towards the passenger’s wheel at the bottom and secure to the intercooler with another #44 hose clamp.
We’ll start with the lower coupler on the fmic, and use the t-rex-head shaped hot pipe. Secure the straight end by it’s back to the lower intercooler side loosely using a hose clamp. The other end uses two #44 hose clamps and the long angled coupler to loosely install to the turbo side. Then pop in the metal insert into the rubber bushing and loosely bolt it to the lower hole on the previously installed bracket using one of the supplied Allen bolts.
Install the front crash bar using the factory hardware. This will make it so you don’t put the upper pipe somewhere it will hit.
The toucan sam looking pipe (cold pipe 1) will attach to the intercooler, with the beak closest to the intercooler and his back pointing towards the wheel area. loosely secure this with provides hose clamps, then slip in the provided aluminum insert for the bushing and loosely bolt it to the intercooler pipe bracket.
Take the raised eyebrow emoji pipe and install it to the charge pipe, bolting it to the chassis on the top side. Secure it with #44 hose clamps to the couper on either end.
Add the 2-3” adapter to the tail end of the Shrimp pipe (cold side to throttle body) with #48 and #44 hose clamps then slip it into the middle pipe you just installed using the remaining short straight coupler. Once it’s loosely into that coupler you can swing it over and on to the throttle body.

If you’re having a hard time getting it in place with the coupler on the pipe, change things up a little and try adding the coupler on to the throttle body and install the pipe into that.
Once all the pipes are in place, go ahead and bolt down the upper pipe using the larger 8mm metal insert, and 8mm thread Allen bolt. Then tighten down all the hose clamps on all the pipes.
You’re all done! Go ahead and put the rest of the car back together, and go out and enjoy!

CARB Sticker Application

(Where Applicable)

Apply the supplied CARB sticker in a clear, easy to find location. Typically underhood, or on the radiator core support.