Raptor F150 Flex Fuel Installation
3F2650 Raptor F150 Flex Fuel Kit
2017-2020
Congratulations on your purchase of the COBB Tuning Raptor F150 Flex Fuel Kit! The following instructions will assist you through the installation process. Please read them BEFORE beginning the install to familiarize yourself with the steps and tools needed. If you feel you cannot properly perform this installation, we HIGHLY recommend you take the vehicle to a qualified and experienced automotive technician.
Parts List
Tools Needed
Sockets
3/8"
3/8" ratchet
3/8" 6" extension
3/8" 10mm socket
Hand Tools
M2.5 Metric Hex Key (included with hardware
Needle-nose pliers
Misc.
Razor blade
Wrenches
18mm combination wrench
Super Cab Owners!!!!!
If you didn’t receive this fuel line with your kit, please reach out to our customer service team to get one sent out, it is a different install form the other trucks.
Ethanol Content Sensor Installation
Park your car in a flat, level area.
With the truck idling, use our fuel pump activation feature on the Accessport to depressurize your fuel system. While it won’t fully empty the lines, it will keep you from having too much fuel sprayed all over the place later on.COBB Custom Features: Fuel Pump Activation via Accessport on Ford F-150 / Raptor
Once the truck dies, let it cool down a little bit and turn it off. Then disconnect the negative terminal from the battery using a 10mm socket
On the Driver’s side of your vehicle, at the rear edge of the front door pop under your vehicle. At the front edge of the fuel tank you should see a metal line about a foot in length. Disconnect this from the front quick connect by gently squeezing the two white legs on the back part of the connector and pushing them away from the connector. The retainer is a u shape around the fuel line so pushing on the two legs should let it release from the line.
Once the fuel connector is released do the same on the fuel tank side. The connector you’re wanting to remove is the blue one in the picture below. This one is a little bit tougher as it’s on top of the fuel tank so you may need to work by touch, or stick your phone up there to see what you’re doing. If you need more room to work, or get it out, remove the plastic clip holding the metal line to the other hose. To remove this clip, The two tabs facing up on the blue u-shaped retainer need to get pushed rearward to be released, then push down towards the fuel tank to push it out. This tends to get really caked up in dirt given it’s location so sometimes wiggling it back and forth a few times can help. Included is an example of how to do it with the same connector found in the engine bay of an explorer.
With the fuel line removed, look at the bottom of the cab. There should be an oval hole right above where that fuel line was. If you have the under-cab insulation you might need to trim it up a little bit with a razor blade to see where it is.
With the large washer and lock nut, craft the assembly you see below. you’ll want to leave about a quarter-inch gap between the washer and the base of the T-fastener. Then loosely thread in the one of the smaller bolts in the kit.
Pop the t-slot fastener into the slot under the cab then turn it 90 degrees. The cut-outs in the base of the fastener should grab on to the sides of the hole and keep it from turning for the most part. I like to use the smaller bolt to pull down on it to keep it locked in place, while tightening it down with a wrench. Once tight, pull the smaller m6 bolt out of the assembly.
Install the supplied fuel line onto the fuel tank side of the sensor as show below. Then hook the fuel line onto the fuel tank pressure hose. Make sure to close the retainer of the factory line so it stays in place!
Now attach the front hose to the sensor assembly with the wiring connector pointed towards the fuel tank.
Using the m6 bolt from earlier with a locking washer, attach the flex fuel sensor to the bracket under the cab. Sometimes the front fuel line will seem too short or out of place, but if you wiggle it a little you can usually free up some room to get it secured.
Plug the ethanol content sensor harness into the sensor and over the frame rail to the outside of the car.
Follow the line of the factory harness and send the wiring up near the brake booster. Make sure to keep it out of the way of the tires, and axle. I usually try to get behind the insulation on the wheel liner.
Leave the harness there to hang out for a little bit.
Park your car in a flat, level area.
With the truck idling, use our fuel pump activation feature on the Accessport to depressurize your fuel system. While it won’t fully empty the lines, it will keep you from having too much fuel sprayed all over the place later on.COBB Custom Features: Fuel Pump Activation via Accessport on Ford F-150 / Raptor
Once the truck dies, let it cool down a little bit and turn it off. Then disconnect the negative terminal from the battery using a 10mm socket
On the Driver’s side of your vehicle, at the rear edge of the front door pop under your vehicle. At the front edge of the fuel tank you should see a short rubber/plastic line about a foot in length. Disconnect this from the front and rear quick connect by gently pulling out the two longer ears and pushing them away from the connector. The retainer is a u shape around the fuel line so pushing on the two legs should let it release from the line. They can get really gummed up from dirt and debris over time so if you’re having a hard time getting them to open up try spraying them with some water or wd40 to loosen things up.
With the fuel line removed, look at the bottom of the cab. There should be an oval hole right above where that fuel line was. If you have the under-cab insulation you might need to trim it up a little bit with a razor blade to see where it is.
With the large washer and lock nut, craft the assembly you see below. you’ll want to leave about a quarter-inch gap between the washer and the base of the T-fastener. Then loosely thread in the one of the smaller bolts in the kit.
Pop the t-slot fastener into the slot under the cab then turn it 90 degrees. The cut-outs in the base of the fastener should grab on to the sides of the hole and keep it from turning for the most part. I like to use the smaller bolt to pull down on it to keep it locked in place, while tightening it down with a wrench. Once tight, pull the smaller m6 bolt out of the assembly.
Hook the front fuel line on the truck onto the side of the ethanol content sensor with the wiring connector.
Plug one end of the female to female line onto the hose coming from the fuel tank, and the other end onto the ethanol content sensor (side without the wiring connector)
Using the m6 bolt from earlier with a locking washer, attach the flex fuel sensor to the bracket under the cab. Sometimes the front fuel line will seem too short or out of place, but if you wiggle it a little you can usually free up some room to get it secured.
Plug the ethanol content sensor harness into the sensor and over the frame rail to the outside of the car.
Follow the line of the factory harness and send the wiring up near the brake booster. Make sure to keep it out of the way of the tires, and axle. I usually try to get behind the insulation on the wheel liner.
Leave the harness there to hang out for a little bit.
Gateway Installation
Using two of the provided m6 bolts, secure the gateway to the bracket as shown.
Unscrew the “sensor” and “vehicle” port covers on the gateway. You can leave the other sensor port covered.
Using a 10mm socket and extension, loosen the bolt on the motor below.
It can sometimes help if you pop this assembly free from the back side to get more access to things. All you need to do is push down and wiggle a little bit for it to pop out of place.
Slide the gateway and bracket into place under the bolt you loosened. The custom washer has a recess on the bottom that should fit nicely into the hole on the firewall, then secure it to the bracket using a 10mm socket. Once you’re happy with that, tighten the other bolt holding the forked end in place.(shown without gateway for easier viewing)
The ethanol content sensor wire can get attached to the sensor port on the bottom side of the gateway.
Vehicle Wiring
In the driver’s compartment, remove the door sill trim by lifting outward. Sometimes the metal clips will stick in the car, remove with needle-nose pliers and apply them back onto the trim if that happens.
The carpet should pop over the little retaining circles by moving them over one at a time.
Super Crew: Once you have access to the floor you should see a grommet in the floor, go ahead and pop that bad boy out of there.
Super Cab:
Most of the floor grommets were sealed over from the factory for whatever reason. The bottom of the truck still has a circle showing where it was located. Use a 1.5” hole saw (not supplied) in the middle of that circle to route the wiring through. Any largerof a hole and the grommet may not seal properly.The CAN harness will get installed with the treaded connector end going from the passenger’s cabin to the outside of the vehicle through the new hole. Position the grommet with the wires inside the cabin heading up towards the hood release area.
Tuck the wiring up out of the way of your feet behind the trim and under the carpeting, if needed use the included zip ties to keep it out of the way.
Re-install the carpet over the retainers, then the trim piece.
On the back side of the OBD2 port there will be an electrical connector. Go ahead and unplug it. The CAN harness will go right in-between that connector and the OBD2 port.
Under the car, route the CAN harness up to the gateway module the same way you brought the flex fuel connector up.
It can now get plugged in to the “vehicle” port
Go back through and secure both wiring harness under the car with the remaining zip ties. Trim the tails off, don’t be a monster.
You should be good to go! While plugged in the gateway won’t be used for flex fuel until a map is flashed to the car so you can continue driving the vehicle as you were before, or flash a flex fuel map on the car.
Keep in mind the fuel system was depressurized so the truck may crank for slightly longer than normal the first time.
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