7H2500 - Intercooler Kit for Honda Civic Type R (FL5) / Acura Integra Type S (DE5)

Civic Type R 2023-2025
Integra Type S 2025

Congratulations on your purchase of the COBB Tuning intercooler kit! The following instructions will assist you through the installation process. Please read them BEFORE beginning the install to familiarize yourself with the steps and tools needed. If you feel you cannot properly perform this installation, we HIGHLY recommend you take the vehicle to a qualified and experienced automotive technician.

[ 1 Parts List ] [ 2 Tools Needed ] [ 2.1 Sockets ] [ 2.1.1 3/8" ] [ 2.2 Hand Tools ] [ 3 Setup ] [ 4 Intake Removal ] [ 5 Front Bumper Removal ] [ 6 Undertray Removal ] [ 7 Intercooler Removal ] [ 8 Intercooler Installation ] [ 9 Trim Trimming er… Trim-ming? ] [ 10 Links ] [ 10.1 MAP Notes ]

Parts List

Tools Needed

Sockets

3/8"

3/8" ratchet
3/8" 12" extension
3/8" 6" extension
3/8" 5mm socket
3/8" 8mm socket
3/8" 10mm socket
3/8" 12mm socket
3/8" 14mm socket

Hand Tools

Phillips head screwdriver
Flathead screwdriver
Trim removal tool

Setup

Park your car in a flat, level area and allow it to cool down.
You’ll need to get under the car, so either jack it up and support it on appropriate stands, or put it on a lift if available.

Intake Removal

Start by unplugging your MAF sensor from the wiring harness by gently pushing down on the tab.
With the harness removed, gently pull the release tabs for the harness away from the tabs on the box to pop that plastic sheathing up and remove it from the airbox.
Using your Phillips screwdriver or a 5.5mm socket, undo the hose clamp where it attaches to the airbox.
With the tube removed, take off the two 10mm bolts on the front edge of the intake scoop.
There are two 10mm bolts left holding the airbox in place. The first is down in the corner between the airbox and ecu.
The last piece to remove is the 10mm bolt back by the battery.
Once all 4 10mm bolts are removed you can pull gently upwards and wiggle the intake out of the engine bay.

Front Bumper Removal

Above each headlight, remove the last trim clip running across the top of the bumper under the rubber gasket, the next two can be skipped as they hold a support bracket to the bumper. Then remove the 2 clips holding that bracket to the core support.
Remove the two trim clips in each wheel well
There are 2 screws to remove as well, one that is straight in, the other that is upward vertically above the vent.
Remove these three trim clips under the front bumper.
Remove the trim clips around the outer edge of the bumper.
Gently pull upward on the bumper eyebrow thingie.
Gently pull outward at the fender and under the headlight to free the bumper from the fender clips.
With a friend’s help, slowly pull the bumper outward. You’ll need to unplug the foglight and release the clip holding the wire to the bumper (sometimes a pair of pliers can help to squeeze the clip for the wiring harness and free it from the bumper.
There is also a plug at the top for the parking sensors that is just under the top edge of the bumper so that you couldn’t possibly disconnect it with the bumper in place which would be really convenient…wouldn’t it Honda….
If you have the light up emblem on the front there will also be a conenctor on the left side of the grid.
The bumper should now be freed from the car! Set it somewhere safe so no one scratches it.

Undertray Removal

Using a #3 size phillips remove the flat screws holding the aluminum piece in place. Using a smaller #2 phillips will likely strip them out.
Using a flat screwdriver, turn the large fasteners 1/4 turn to the counterclockwise and they should drop out. On the last one you should be able to push the aluminum skid plate forward and then drop it out.
Use a #2 Phillips to remove the two screws holding the plastic piece that steps down in place. Then remove the trim clips and drop that piece out as well. The engine should be mostly exposed.
Remove the two 14mm bolts holding the metal brace going across the engine bay in, then drop that out.

Intercooler Removal

Using a 10mm socket and extension, undo the two bolts on either side holdingthe brake ducts in place, and remove them from the car.
Gently lift up and then pull out on the plastic air diverter sitting in front of the intercooler, set it aside so we can work on it later.
Take out the two 12mm bolts from the intercooler going into the charge pipes from the front.
Pull out your 10mm again and remove the top bracket holding the intercooler in. Be careful on the second one as that’s all that is holding the intercooler in at this point.
The intercooler should drop out. If the lower rubber bumper didn’t come out remove that from the lower mount.
Undo the 10mm bolt holding the charge pipes to the core support on each side.
Undo the clamp on the pipe going to the turbo using your socket. Then drop that pipe out of the car.
Also undo the clamp to the cold pipe going over the transmission and remove that bad boy from the car.
Unclip the air temp sensor from the plastic part of the bumper beam.
Undo the 10mm bolts on each side of the plastic bumper beam cover.
Remove the 2 trim clips in each nostril of the radiator shroud, and two on each side of the bumper beam until the plastic cover comes off. There is also one on each side with the trim clip going straight up.

Intercooler Installation

Drop the larger COBB bushings into the lower bushing mount on the car.
Assemble the intercooler brackets using 3 of the m6x10x1.0 button head allen bolts. The D-Shaped piece should slot neatly into the bracket, and the P-shaped piece should point upwards
On the top of the intercooler side (the cutouts in the endtank will be the bottom) Slide the brackets with bushings on to the pin on either side of the intercooler core. The bracket should slope downwards with the “P” shape towards the inside and the “D” shaped bracket towards the outside.
Set the bottom pin on each side into the mounting bushing at an angle, then roll the intercooler up and in to a vertical position. You may have to push a little to get it past the bottom part of the air deflectors.
Secure the brackets on each side with the supplied m6x30mm bolts, one going straight back from the front, and one going in from the side.
With the intercooler securely mounted, slide the puffy straight couplers on to either side (with a #44 hoseclamp on each end). The larger end will go over the intercooler. These couplers (and all of them for this kit) are made with a groove inside to lock on to the lip of the pipe so you should feel it pop nicely into place.
The shorter 90 degree pipe will connect to the 90 degree coupler so you can install those with loose clamps and fish the pipe in from the side (not into the intercooler yet). The larger side of the coupler to the pipe gets a #44 clamp, while the smaller part going on to the turbocharger gets a #40.
The coupler will need to get twisted over and up onto the turbo.
Once its up and on the turbo you can go ahead and install the pipe into the intercooler (make sure it’s all the way in or it may rub on something). Then tighten your clamps down.
Through the process of deduction the other metal pipe goes on the passenger’s side. The short 90 will go towards the intercooler, but unlike the driver’s side, this side is a little easier to install if you go onto the engine side charge pipe first. Then shove the pipe into the coupler (with clamps) and finally into the intercooler, securing both ends with the provided clamps.
Once all the pipes are in and the clamps are tight, use a 10mm socket to reinstall the brake ducts.
Next up install the plastic bumper beam cover with the trim clips and bolts.
The air temp sensor won’t fit on the backside (there is an intercooler there now) but it will still fit and snap in to the front side.

Trim Trimming er… Trim-ming?

The bottom air deflector will ened to be trimmed a bit to fit around the intercoolers larger size. Your cutting position may vary. We recommend if you want the tightest fit to trim off a little bit at a time rather than going the whole way. We found that cutting to the first horizontal support rib was pretty close to perfect and left all the attaching points in place and left the rib in place as well, then followed the flat end to the edge (see the red lines). We found that using a razor blade to cut this worked the better than a powered tool as those would melt the plastic quickly. Also using side cutters to snip the vertical ribs we were going through and then using sharp scissors made the longer cuts easy.
Similarly the two side vents on the bumper will need to get trimmed up. Remove the two small phillips screws so you can do this off of the bumper.
Each side is a little different. But I slightly overcut them in the same way! I’d recommend cutting to a point that leaves about 1/4” (6.35mm) before the support. Keep in mind it’s not super critical for this to be tight, but hypothetically the closer it is the more air will be forced through your cooling system.

Passenger’s Side
Driver’s side

I cut all the way to the rib which left a bit of a gap, so again, cut a little less than you think so you can really dial it in. They can also be matched up with the curve of the first trim piece you installed to test fit on the car without the bumper. This should help you notice before you cut too much.
Once you’re happy with the trimming, you can reinstall those to the bumper and reassemble the car!
Go out and enjoy!

Links

MAP Notes

Helps to figure out which map you should be on given the parts installed to your car

map

Map Notes for FL5 Civic Type R / DE5 Integra Type S