Slide the velocity stack/MAF housing component through the MAF mountaing bracket with the curved large end on the same size as the two pins sticking out.
The back side with the longer end and the MAF opening should be on the same side that there are two flat tabs sticking up.
You can bolt this in place using 3 of the smaller m6 allen bolts (m6x1.0x10mm). Tightening it down with the provided m4 hex key.
That plate can now get bolted into the airbox with the remaining 3 shorter m6 bolts. The tab going upwards should be opposite the side of the airbox with the large flat. You should be able to get the tight one near the MAF housing with the provided ball end allen key.
Install the MAF Extension harness to the MAF Sensor plug and route the wire down and towards the outside of the car.
You can now go ahead and drop the whole assembly into the engine bay. Your goal is to get the frame rail bolt tab to line up as well as the one on the inside of the fender.
Make sure not to pinch the wiring harness against the fender or wheel liner.
Install the air filter tightening down the hose clamp with an 8mm socket/nutdriver or a flat blade screwdriver.
Slide in the airbox fender panel slipping it over the pins on the bottom of the airbox
Take the first of your m6 x 1.0 x 16mm flanged head bolts and add one of the stainless washers to it before loosely installing it through the blockoff plate and airbox into the side of the fender.
Reinstall the silver intake support bracket from the stock intake.
Secure it to the fender with the stock hardware, then use the provided flange nut on the inside and flanged bolt and fender washer combination on the outside to loosely bolt it to the airbox.
Use the remaining flanged bolt and washer to bolt it down to the frame rail.
With all three of those flanged bolts installed you can tighten them down using your 10mm socket and wrench.
You can now install the airbox lid using the 5 provided M6 x 1.0 x 12mm allen head bolts along with the plastic washers. Loosely install them first to get everything lined up, then tighten down with the provided allen key.
You can go ahead and reinstall the stock snorkel before moving underneath the car to complete the installation.
Underneath the car now, Take the smaller coupler and slip it over the maf housing with two hose clamps. The coupler is a slight angle and you want the angle to be going towards the front of the car. Essentially the COBB logo should be on the top side and towards the outside of the car. Leave the two hose clamps loose for now, you'll want to be able to rotate them somewhat freely once the intake is installed so you can get things positioned where it's easy to tighten.
Take the 90 degree aluminum bend and the zig-zag coupler and secure it in the fashion showed using a hose clamp at either end. The COBB logo should be at the end away from the pipe and it should continue the bend in an arc. Leave the clamps loose for now.
Install the pipe end into the coupler coming off of the intake, then slip the silicon coupler over the turbo inlet. If things seem a little stretched or kinked, try slightly turning the couplers in one direction or ther other to see if that relaxes things a bit more.
At this point swing your wheel liner back up, make sure it can make it all the way up without the intake stopping it. If not wiggle some of the couplers around, turning the angled coupler at the MAF housing and the zig zag at the inlet should allow the piping to get high enough to fit properly. Once you’re happy with the fit go ahead and tighten down the hose clamps.
Plug the MAF sensor extension into the MAF sensor.
You should now be good to re-install the wheel liner, and undertray of the car as well as anything else you removed to do the install.
You’re all done! Go out and enjoy!
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